01 Jul 11: Zhangye-Xining, China

We chose this destination instead of Wuwei on the way to Lanzhou. It allows us to go through another province the Qinghai

Are good manners a cultural issue? Simple things such greetings of the day seem to bear different values here in China and in Central Asia. The “Ni hao” or “Have you eaten today?” are not equivalents to the Western “Good morning”. They are sometimes said and most of the time just omitted or ignored. French people would be horrified not to be greeted by a “Bonjour” and by a “Meio” before you utter your question. Millions of Chinese never use it. Queuing seems to start here in China as opposed to Central Asia, although one would be pushed around if we try to let the ladies and children go first. We nearly missed the train by avoiding pushing our way through. It appears almost as a survival reflex. Of all my travels to nearly 100 countries, I have only met 3 nations with such an attitude, China, India and Nigeria. Kim is not put off by this attitude and is tolerant considering these as forming part of local ways and that some day they may learn, thinking that cleanliness should be learnt first.

We are on our way to Xining. We do not have the heavy music, but our driver is an angry hooter. He cannot stand the slightest movement of any vehicle or pedestrian hinting that they may be on his way. Stop “pipi” at Minte.

We just went through a 3 685m pass to reach the Eastern Tibet plateau. The landscape is totally different and we are now in the Qinghai province. Green soft rounded pastures, rivers and lakes with free yaks and horses grazing. A few shepherds with their tents and no yurts. This is the only difference with Kyrgyzstan. Stupas here and there. Surprisingly we noticed also mosque domes in the villages we pass.