22 Jun 2011: Kuqa, China

Kuqa was a charming surprise too. We discovered by chance a small pedestrian plaza. This is quite an exception because nothing is pedestrianised here. All vehicles consider it their inherited right to drive their cars, scooters (bicycles have disappeared) and hoot you out of their way on the pavements. Before dinner we tried something brave. Walk-in a hairdresser’s salon and explain in Chinese how we would prefer our haircut. I wanted the full military crew cut, but he understood that I was in only for a trim. It came out to be modestly the same hairstyle freshened up. The plaza is loaded with outdoor food vendors offering grilled food and soups. We settled for an array of brochettes – grilled vegetables, mushrooms, prawns, beef, sausages, chicken – all spiced a little too generously to our taste. Dinner was complete with a stand up watermelon tasting from the next stall. This has become a traditional way of ending the evening.